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  1. IMPROVISED MUNITIONS HANDBOOK
  2.  
  3. TM 31-210 Department of the army technical manual
  4.  
  5. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA WAR OFFICE
  6.  
  7. FOR OFFICIAL USE ONLY
  8.  
  9. CHAPTER I
  10. ---------
  11.  
  12. EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS (Includind Igniters)
  13.  
  14. For further information or additional inserts, contact:
  15.  
  16. Commanding Officer
  17. Frankford Arsenal
  18. ATTN: SMUF A-U3100, Special Products Division
  19. Small Caliber Engineering Directorate
  20. Philadelphia, PA. 19137
  21.  
  22. Additional inserts will be made available as evaluation tests are completed.
  23. Please notify the above agency of any change of address so that you may receive
  24. them.
  25.  
  26. INTRODUCTION
  27.  
  28. 1. Purpose and Scope
  29.  
  30. In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible or unwise to use
  31. conventional military munitions as tools in the conduct of certain missions. it
  32. may be necessary instead to fabricate the required munitions from locally
  33. available or unassuming materials. The purpose of this Manual is to increase
  34. the potential of Special Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail
  35. the manufacture of munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available mate-
  36. rials.
  37.  
  38. Manufactured, precision devices almost always will be more effective, more
  39. reliable, and easier to use than improvised ones, but shelf items will just not
  40. be available for certain operations for security or logistical reasons. There-
  41. fore the operater will have to rely on materials he can buy in a drug or paint
  42. store, find in a junk pile, or scrounge from military stocks. Also, many of the
  43. ingredients and materials used in fabricating homemade items are so commonplace
  44. or innocuous they can be carried without arousing suspicion. The completed item
  45. itself often is more easily concealed or camouflaged. In addition, the field
  46. expedient item can be tailored for the intended target, thereby providing an
  47. advantage over the standard item in flexibility and versatility.
  48.  
  49. The Manual contains simple explanations and illustrations to permit const-
  50. ruction of the items by personnel not normally familiar with making and hand-
  51. ling munitions. These items were conceived in-house or, obtained from other
  52. publications or personnel engaged in munitions or special warfare work. This
  53. Manual includes methods for fabricating explosives, detonators, propellants,
  54. shaped charges, small arms, mortats, incendiaries, delays, switches, and simi-
  55. lar items from indigenous materials.
  56.  
  57. 2. Safety and Reliability
  58.  
  59. Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to assure safety
  60. and reliability. A large number of items were descarded because of inherent
  61. hazards or unreliable performance. Safety warnings are prominently inserted in
  62. the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that safety is a matter of
  63. attitude. It is a proven fact that men who are alert, who think out a situa-
  64. tion, and who take correct precautions have fewer accidents than the careless
  65. and indifferent. It is important that work be planned and that instructions be
  66. followed to the letter; all work should be done in a neat and orderly manner.
  67. In the manufacture explosives, detonators, propellants and incendiaries, equip-
  68. ment must be kept clean and such energy concentrations as sparks, friction, im-
  69. pact, hot objects, flame, chemical reactions, and excessive pressure should be
  70. avoided.
  71.  
  72. These items were found to be effective in most environments; however, samples
  73. should be made and tested remotely prior to actual use of assure proper per-
  74. formance. Chemical items should be used as soon as possible after preparation
  75. and kept free of moisture, dirt, and the above energy concentrations. Special
  76. care should be taken in any attempt at substitution or use of items for pur-
  77. poses other than that specified or intended.
  78.  
  79. 3. User Comments
  80.  
  81. It is anticipated that this manual will be revised or changed from time to
  82. time. In this way it will be possible to update present material and add new
  83. items as they become available. Users are encouraged to submit recommended
  84. changes or comments to improve this manual. Comments should be keyed to the
  85. specific page, paragraph, and line of the text in which changes are recom-
  86. mended. Reasons should be provided for each comment to insure understanding
  87. and complete evaluation. Comments should be forwarded directly to Commandant,
  88. United States Army, Special Warfare School, Fort Bragg, North Carolina 28307
  89. and Commanding Officer, United States Army, Frankford Arsenal, SMUFA-J8000,
  90. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19137.
  91.  
  92.  
  93. Section I
  94.  
  95. No. 1
  96.  
  97. PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER
  98.  
  99. A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum
  100. jelly. This explosive can be detonaed with commercial #8 or military blasting
  101. cap.
  102.  
  103. MATERIALS REQUIRED: HOW USED:
  104. ------------------- ---------
  105.  
  106. Potassium chlorate Medicine
  107. Manufacture of matches
  108.  
  109. Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) Medicine
  110. Lubricant
  111.  
  112. Piece of round stick
  113.  
  114. Wide bowl or other container
  115. for mixing ingredients.
  116.  
  117. PROCEDURE:
  118. ----------
  119.  
  120. 1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round
  121. stick over crystals to crush into a very fine powder until it looks like face
  122. powder or wheat flour.
  123.  
  124. 2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a
  125. wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead) until a uni-
  126. form paste is obtained.
  127.  
  128. NOTE: Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready to use.
  129.  
  130.  
  131. Section I
  132.  
  133. No. 2
  134.  
  135. POTASSIUM NITRATE
  136.  
  137. Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) can be extracted from many natural sources and
  138. can be used to make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield
  139. ranges from .1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.
  140.  
  141. MATERIALS: SOURCES:
  142. ---------- --------
  143.  
  144. Nitrate bearing earth or other Soil containing old decayed
  145. materials, about 3-1/2 gallons vegetable or animal matter
  146. (13-1/2 liters)
  147. Old cellars and/or farm dirt
  148. floors
  149.  
  150. Earth from old burial grounds
  151.  
  152. Decayed stone or mortal build-
  153. ings foundations
  154.  
  155. Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup Totally burned whitish wood
  156. (1/8 liter) ash powder
  157.  
  158. Bucket or similar container, Totally burned paper (black)
  159. about 5 gallons (19 liters) in
  160. volume (plastic, metal, or
  161. wood)
  162. 2 pieces of finely woven cloth,
  163. each slightly larger than bot-
  164. tom of bucket
  165. Shallow pan or dish, at least as
  166. large as bottom of bucket
  167. Shallow heat resistant container
  168. (ceramic, metal, etc.)
  169. Water - 1-1/3 gallons (6-3/4
  170. liters)
  171. Awl, knife, screwdriver, or ot-
  172. her hole producing instrument
  173. Alcohol about 1 gallon (4 lit-
  174. ers) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol,
  175. etc.)
  176. Heat source (fire, electric
  177. heater, etc.)
  178. Paper
  179. Tape
  180.  
  181. NOTE: Only the rations of the amount of ingredients are important. Thus, for
  182. twice as much potassium nitrate, double quantities used.
  183.  
  184. PROCEDURE:
  185. ----------
  186.  
  187. 1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes in-
  188. side of bucket.
  189.  
  190. 2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of
  191. the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes.
  192.  
  193. 3. Place dirt in bucket.
  194.  
  195. 4. Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks if
  196. necessary.
  197.  
  198.  
  199. ************
  200. *EEEEEEEEEE*
  201. *EEEEEEEEEE*-----Earth ****
  202. *EEEEEEEEEE* / **
  203. *CCCCCCCCCC*-----Cloth Stick-------*********
  204. *WWWWWWWW*------Wood \ **
  205. *AAAAAAAA*------Ashes ****
  206. *CCCCCCCC*------Cloth
  207. **********
  208. SSSSSSSSSSSSSS--------Stick
  209. **********
  210. **********------Shallow Container
  211. **********
  212.  
  213. 5. Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow
  214. water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water
  215. through all of the earth. Allow drained liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2
  216. hours.
  217.  
  218. NOTE: Do not pour all water at once, since this may cause stopage.
  219.  
  220. 6. Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any
  221. sludge remaining in bottom of the shallow container.
  222.  
  223. 7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will
  224. begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any type
  225. of improvised strainer (paper, etc.).
  226.  
  227. 8. When liquid has boiled down to approximately half its original volume, re-
  228. move from fire and let sit. After half an hour add an equal volume of alcohol.
  229. When mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals will collect on top
  230. of it.
  231.  
  232. 9. To purify the potassium nitrate, re-desolve the dry crystals in the small-
  233. est possible amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step
  234. 7); pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces of paper and eva-
  235. porate or gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness.
  236.  
  237. 10. Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitrate
  238. crystals are now ready for use.
  239.  
  240.  
  241. Section I
  242.  
  243. No. 3
  244.  
  245. IMPROVISED BLACK POWDER
  246.  
  247. Black Powder can be prepered in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as
  248. blasting or gun powder.
  249.  
  250. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
  251. -------------------
  252.  
  253. Potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter) (see Sect. I, No. 2)
  254. Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (1/2 liter)
  255. Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup (1/8 liter)
  256. Alcohol, 5 pints (2-1/2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
  257. Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
  258. Heat source
  259. 2 Buckets - each 2 gallon (7-1/2 liters) capacity, at least one of which is
  260. heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)
  261. Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square
  262. Large wooden stick
  263. Cloth, at least 2 feet (60 cm) square
  264.  
  265. NOTE: The above amounts will yield two pounds (900 grams) of black powder. How-
  266. ever, only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients. Thus, for twice as much
  267. black powder, double all quantities used.
  268.  
  269. PROCEDURE:
  270. ----------
  271.  
  272. 1. Place alcohol in on3e of the buckets.
  273.  
  274. 2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket.
  275. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are
  276. dissolved.
  277.  
  278. 3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and
  279. stir until small bubbles begin to form.
  280.  
  281. CAUTION: Do not boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as
  282. on sides of pan, it may ignite.
  283.  
  284. 4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigo-
  285. rously.
  286.  
  287. 5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to
  288. obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze
  289. to remove all excess liquid.
  290.  
  291. 6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on
  292. screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen.
  293.  
  294. NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, re-
  295. combine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.
  296.  
  297. 7. Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer about 1/2
  298. inch (1-1/4 cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This
  299. should be dried as soon as possible, perferably in one hour. The longer the
  300. drying period, the less effective the black powder.
  301.  
  302. CAUTION: Remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now
  303. ready for use.
  304.  
  305.  
  306. Section I
  307.  
  308. No. 4
  309.  
  310.  
  311. NITRIC ACID
  312.  
  313. Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mix-
  314. tures, and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of
  315. potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.
  316.  
  317. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  318. ------------------- --------
  319.  
  320. Potassium nitrate (2 parts by Drug Store
  321. volume) Improvised (Section I, No. 2)
  322. Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 Motor vehicle batteries
  323. part by volume) Industrial plants
  324. 2 bottles of ceramic jugs
  325. (narrow necks are prefectable)
  326. Pot or frying pan
  327. Heat source (wood, coal, or
  328. charcoal)
  329. Tape (paper, elecrtical, mask-
  330. ing, etc, but not cellophane)
  331. Paper or rags
  332.  
  333. IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concent-
  334. rate it by boiling it until white fumes appear. DO NOT INHALE FUMES.
  335.  
  336. NOTE: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potas-
  337. sium nitrate. Thus, for 2 tablespoonsful of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonsful
  338. of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonsful of concentrated sulfuric acid.
  339.  
  340. PROCEDURE:
  341. ----------
  342.  
  343. 1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not
  344. fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste is formed.
  345.  
  346. 2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of
  347. bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there
  348. are no air spaces.
  349.  
  350. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn sn\kin and destroy clothing. If any is spill-
  351. ed, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and
  352. should not be inhaled.
  353.  
  354. 3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower
  355. than bottle containing paste so that nitric acid thet is formed in receiving
  356. bottle will not run into other bottle.
  357.  
  358. 4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.
  359.  
  360. 5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red
  361. fumes begin to appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle.
  362. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle.
  363.  
  364. CAUTION: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As
  365. an added precaution, place bottle to be heated in heat resistent container
  366. filled with sand or gravel. Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid.
  367.  
  368. 6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nit-
  369. ric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into
  370. cleaned bottle and repeat Steps 2-6.
  371.  
  372. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spill-
  373. ed, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and
  374. should not be inhaled.
  375.  
  376. Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a
  377. sealed ceramic or glass container.
  378.  
  379.  
  380. Section I
  381.  
  382. No. 5
  383.  
  384.  
  385. INITIATOR FOR DUST EXPLOSIONS
  386.  
  387. An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions
  388. can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the
  389. destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.
  390.  
  391. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
  392. -------------------
  393.  
  394. A flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) diameter and 1-1/2 in. (3-3/4 cm) high. A 6-1/2 ounce
  395. Tuna can serves the purpose quite well.
  396. Blasting cap
  397. Explosive
  398. Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can or powder)
  399. Large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long
  400. Wooden rod - 1/4 in. (6 mm) diameter
  401. Flour, gasoline and powder or chipped aluminum
  402.  
  403. NOTE: Plastic explosives (Comp. C-4, etc.) produce better explosions than cast
  404. explosives (Comp. B, etc.).
  405.  
  406. PROCEDURE:
  407. ----------
  408.  
  409. 1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2
  410. inch (1 to 1-1/2 cm) from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, en-
  411. large the hole until it will accommodate the blasting cap.
  412.  
  413. 2. Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the
  414. center of the can.
  415.  
  416. 3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is
  417. 3/4 inch (2 cm) from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod.
  418.  
  419. 4. Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive.
  420.  
  421. 5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod.
  422. The initiator is now ready for use.
  423.  
  424. NOTE: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be
  425. pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.
  426.  
  427. HOW TO USE:
  428. -----------
  429.  
  430. This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of
  431. flour, 1/2 gallon (1-2/3 litres) of gasoline or twwo pounds of flake painters
  432. aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard
  433. cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plasticcoated paper milk cartons, plas-
  434. tic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator
  435. and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the type
  436. of cap employed. This will destroy a 2.000 cubic feet enclosure (building 10 x
  437. 20 x 10 feet).
  438.  
  439. NOTE: For larger enclosures, use proportionately larger initiators and charges.
  440.  
  441.  
  442. Section I
  443.  
  444. No. 6
  445.  
  446.  
  447. FERTILIZER EXPLOSIVE
  448.  
  449. An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammunition nitrate
  450. and either fuel or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When
  451. properly prepared, this explosive munition can be detonated with a blasting
  452. cap.
  453.  
  454. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
  455. -------------------
  456.  
  457. Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen)
  458. Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1 ratio)
  459. Two flat boards. (At least one of these should be comfortably held in the hand,
  460. i.e. 2 x 4 and 36 x 36.)
  461. Bucket or other container for mixing ingredients
  462. Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy-walled cardboard tube
  463. Blasting cap
  464. Wooden rod - 1/4 in. diameter
  465. Spoon or similar measuring container
  466.  
  467. PROCEDURE:
  468. ----------
  469.  
  470. 1. Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat board and rub
  471. vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a
  472. very fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min).
  473.  
  474. NOTE: Proceed with Step 2 as soon as possible since the powder may take mois-
  475. ture from the air and become spoiled.
  476.  
  477. 2. Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc.) of fuel oil with 16 measures of
  478. the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry bucket or other suitable container
  479. and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not available, use one half mea-
  480. sure of gasoline and one half of motor oil. Store in a waterproof container un-
  481. til ready to use.
  482.  
  483. 3. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap thread-
  484. ed on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can, a glass
  485. jar or a heavy-walled cardboard tube.
  486.  
  487. NOTE: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture be-
  488. comes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the explosive.
  489.  
  490. 4. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.
  491.  
  492. NOTE: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of
  493. the explosive.
  494.  
  495.  
  496. Section I
  497.  
  498. No. 7
  499.  
  500.  
  501. CARBON TET - EXPLOSIVE
  502.  
  503. A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined
  504. with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be deto-
  505. nated with a blasting cap.
  506.  
  507. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  508. ------------------- --------
  509.  
  510. Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint Store
  511. Carbon tetrachloride or Pharmacy, or fire extin-
  512. tetrachloroethylene guisher fluid
  513. Stirring rod (wood) Dry cleaners, Pharmacy
  514. Mixing container (bowl, bucket,
  515. etc.)
  516. Measuring container (cup, table,
  517. spoon, etc.)
  518. Storage container (jar, can,
  519. etc.)
  520. Blasting cap
  521. Pipe, can or jar
  522.  
  523. PROCEDURE:
  524. ----------
  525.  
  526. 1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or
  527. tetrachloroethylene liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while
  528. stirring with the wooden rod.
  529.  
  530. 2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.
  531.  
  532. CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.
  533.  
  534. 3. Store explosive in a jar or similar waterproof container until ready to
  535. use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not nonfined.
  536.  
  537. NOTE: Mixture will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.
  538.  
  539. HOW TO USE:
  540. -----------
  541.  
  542. 1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap thread-
  543. ed on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a grass
  544. jar,
  545.  
  546. 2. Insert B\blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.
  547.  
  548. NOTE: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of
  549. the explosive.
  550.  
  551.  
  552. Section I
  553.  
  554. No. 8
  555.  
  556.  
  557. FERTILIZER AN-AL EXPLOSIVE
  558.  
  559. A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combi-
  560. ned with fine aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting
  561. cap.
  562.  
  563. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  564. ------------------- --------
  565.  
  566. Ammonium nitrate fertilizer Farm or Feed Store
  567. (not less than 32% nitrogen)
  568. Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint Store
  569. Measuring container (cup, table-
  570. spoon, etc.)
  571. Mixing container (wide bowl, can,
  572. etc.)
  573. Two flat boards (one should be
  574. comfortably held in hand and
  575. one very large, i.e. 2 x 4
  576. and 36 x 36 in.)
  577. Storage container (jar, can,
  578. etc.)
  579. Blasting cap
  580. Wooden rod - 1/4 inch diameter
  581. Pipe, can or jar
  582.  
  583. PROCEDURE:
  584. ----------
  585.  
  586. 1. Method I - To obtain a low velocity explosive.
  587.  
  588. a. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part
  589. aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container.
  590. (Example: 4 cups of fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder.)
  591.  
  592. b. Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod.
  593.  
  594. 2. Method II - To obtain a much higher velocity explosive.
  595.  
  596. a. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board
  597. and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are
  598. crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min per
  599. handful).
  600.  
  601. NOTE: Proceed with step b below as soon as possible since the powder may take
  602. moisture from the air and become spoiled.
  603.  
  604. b. Follow steps a and b of Method I.
  605.  
  606. 3. Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as glass jar,
  607. steel pipe, etc., until ready to use.
  608.  
  609. HOW TO USE:
  610. -----------
  611.  
  612. Follow steps 1 and 2 of "How To Use" in Section I, No. 7.
  613.  
  614.  
  615. Section I
  616.  
  617. No. 9
  618.  
  619.  
  620. "RED OR WHITE POWDER" PROPELLANT
  621.  
  622. "Red or White Powder" Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner.
  623. The formulation describes below will result in approximately 2-1/2 pounds of
  624. powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with
  625. 1/2 in. inside diameter or less, such as the Match Gun or the 7.62 Carbine, but
  626. not pistols.
  627.  
  628. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
  629. -------------------
  630.  
  631. Heat source (Kitchen stove or open fire)
  632. 2 gallon metal bucket
  633. Measuring cup (8 ounces)
  634. Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
  635. Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 in. sq.)
  636. Flat window screen (at least 1 ft. sq.)
  637. Potassium nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups
  638. White sugar (granulated) 2 cups
  639. Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1.8 cup (if available)
  640. Clear water, 3-1/2 cups
  641.  
  642. PROCEDURE:
  643. ----------
  644.  
  645. 1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat with a
  646. low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and potassium nitrate dis-
  647. solve.
  648.  
  649. 2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the
  650. flame under the mixture until it boils gently.
  651.  
  652. NOTE: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.
  653.  
  654. 3. Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced
  655. to one quarter of its orginal volume, then stir continuously.
  656.  
  657. 4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches
  658. the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge. At this stage of
  659. thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source, and spread the mass on the
  660. metal sheet.
  661.  
  662. 5. While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in criss-
  663. crossed furrows about 1 inch spart.
  664.  
  665. 6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore
  666. it occasionally (about every 20 minutes) to air drying.
  667.  
  668. 7. When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not
  669. sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the material
  670. back and forth against the screen mesh with spoon or other flat object until
  671. the material is granulated into small worm-like particles.
  672.  
  673. 8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.
  674.  
  675.  
  676. Section I
  677.  
  678. No. 10
  679.  
  680.  
  681. NITRIC ACID/NITROBENZENE ("HELLHOFFITE") EXPLOSIVE
  682.  
  683. An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It
  684. is a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the mononitrobenzene into the acid
  685. stir.
  686.  
  687. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  688. ------------------- --------
  689.  
  690. Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated
  691. (specific gravity of 1.48)
  692. Mononitrobenzene (also known as Drug store (oil of mirbane)
  693. nitrobenzene) Chemiclal supply house
  694. Industries (used as solvent)
  695. Acid resistant measuring con- Glass, clay, etc.
  696. tainers.
  697. Acid resistant mixing rod
  698. Blasting cap
  699. Wax
  700. Steel pipe, end cap and tape
  701. Bottle or jar
  702.  
  703. NOTE: Prepare mixture just before use.
  704.  
  705. PROCEDURE:
  706. ----------
  707.  
  708. 1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc.) mononitrobenzene to 2 volumes nitric acid
  709. in bottle or jar.
  710.  
  711. 2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.
  712.  
  713. CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,
  714. wash off imediately with a large amount of water. Nitrobenzene is toxic; do not
  715. inhale fumes.
  716.  
  717. HOW TO USE:
  718. -----------
  719.  
  720. 1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
  721.  
  722. 2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
  723.  
  724. 3. Pour mixture into pipe.
  725.  
  726. 4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.
  727.  
  728. NOTE: Combining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the
  729. explosive.
  730.  
  731.  
  732. Section I
  733.  
  734. No. 11
  735.  
  736.  
  737. OPTIMIZED PROCESS FOR CELLULOSE/ACID EXPLOSIVES
  738.  
  739. An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cot-
  740. ton cloth. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or any military
  741. blasting cap.
  742.  
  743. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  744. ------------------- --------
  745.  
  746. Nitric acid Industrial metal processors, 90%
  747. concentrated (specific gravity
  748. of 1.48)
  749. Field grade (See Section I, No. 4)
  750. White unprinted, unsized paper Paper towels, napkins
  751. Clean white cotton cloth Clothing, sheets, etc.
  752. Acid resistant container Wax coasted pipe or can, ceramic
  753. pipe, glass jar, etc.
  754. Heavy-walled glass container
  755. Aluminum foil or acid resistant Food stores
  756. material
  757. Protective gloves
  758. Blasting cap
  759. Wax
  760.  
  761. PROCEDURE:
  762. ----------
  763.  
  764. 1. Put on gloves.
  765.  
  766. 2. Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with
  767. nitric acid until thoroughly soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use an
  768. acid resistant material (glass, ceramic or wood).
  769.  
  770. CAUTION: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it
  771. away with a large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
  772.  
  773. 3. Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and
  774. repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary.
  775.  
  776. 4. Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the
  777. roll into the acid resistant container.
  778.  
  779. NOTE: If glass, ceramic or wooden tray is used, pick up sheets with two wooden
  780. sticks and load into container.
  781.  
  782. 5. Wax blasting cap.
  783.  
  784. 6. Insert the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min-
  785. utes before detonating the explosive.
  786.  
  787.  
  788. NOTE: Section I, No. 12 to 17 is missing in the book. Probably censored.
  789.  
  790.  
  791. Section I
  792.  
  793. No. 18
  794.  
  795.  
  796. POTASSIUM OR SODIUM NITRATE AND LITHARGE (LEAD MONOXIDE)
  797.  
  798. Potassium or sodium nitrate is needed to prepare DDNP (Section I, No. 19)
  799. and litharge is required for the preparation of lead picrate (Section I, No.
  800. 20).
  801.  
  802. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  803. ------------------- --------
  804.  
  805. Lead metal (small pieces or Pluming supply store
  806. chips)
  807. Potasium (or sodium) nitrate Field grade (Section I, No. 2)
  808. Methyl (wood) alcohol or Drug Store.
  809. Iron pipe with end cap
  810. Iron rod or screwdriver
  811. Paper towels
  812. 2 glass jars, wide mouth
  813. Metal pan
  814. Heat source (hot coals or blow
  815. torch)
  816. Improvised scale (Section VII,
  817. No. 8)
  818. Cup
  819. Water
  820. Pan
  821.  
  822. PROCEDURE:
  823. ----------
  824.  
  825. 1. Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or sodium nitrate in a jar.
  826. Place the mixture in the iron pipe.
  827.  
  828. 2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or with blow torch for 30 minutes to
  829. 1 hour. (Mixture will change to a yellow color.)
  830.  
  831. 3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and allow to cool. Chip out the
  832. yellow material formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in the glass jar.
  833.  
  834. 4. Add 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of methyl alcohol to the chips.
  835.  
  836. 5. Heat the glass jar containing the mixture in a hot water bath for approxi-
  837. mately 2 minutes (heat until there is a noticeable reaction between chips and
  838. alcohol; solution will turn darker.
  839.  
  840. 6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. The
  841. material left on the paper towel is lead monoxide.
  842.  
  843. 7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using 1/2
  844. cup (120 milliliters) of hot water each time. Air dry before using.
  845.  
  846. 8. Place the jar with the liquid (from Step 6) in a hot water bath (as in
  847. Step 5) and heat until the alcohol has evaporated. The powder remaining in the
  848. jar after evaporation is potassium or sodium nitrate.
  849.  
  850. NOTE: Nitrate has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere and
  851. should be stored in a closed container.
  852.  
  853.  
  854. Section I
  855.  
  856. No. 19
  857.  
  858.  
  859. DDNP
  860.  
  861. DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication of detonators (Section
  862. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid
  863. (Section I, No. 21) or RDX (Section I, No. 15).
  864.  
  865. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  866. ------------------- --------
  867.  
  868. Picric acid Section I, No. 21
  869. Flowers of sulfur
  870. Lye (sodium hydroxide)
  871. Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor vehicle batteries
  872. Potassium or sodium nitrate Section I, No. 15
  873. Water
  874. 2 glass cups, heat resistant,
  875. (Pyrex)
  876. Stirring rod (glass or wood)
  877. Improvised scale Section VII, No. 8
  878. Paper towels
  879. Teaspoon
  880. Tablespoon
  881. Eyedropper
  882. Heat source
  883. Containers
  884. Tape
  885.  
  886. PROCEDURE:
  887. ----------
  888.  
  889. 1. In one of the glass cups, mix 1/2 gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30
  890. milliliters) of warm water.
  891.  
  892. 2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the water-lye solution.
  893. Store until ready for step 5.
  894.  
  895. 3. Place 1/4 teaspoon (1 milliliter) of water in the other glass cup. Add 1/2
  896. teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) of sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) of lye to the
  897. water.
  898.  
  899. 4. Boil solution over heat source until color turns dark red. Remove and
  900. allow solution to cool.
  901.  
  902. 5. In three portions, add this sulfur-lye solution to the picric acid-lye
  903. solution (Step 2); stir while pouring. Allow mixture to cool.
  904.  
  905. 6. Filter the mixture through paper towel into a container. Small red par-
  906. ticles will collect the paper. Discard the liquid in the container.
  907.  
  908. 7. Dissolve the red particles in 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) of boiling water.
  909.  
  910. 8. Remove and filter the mixture through a paper towel as in step 6. Discard
  911. the particles left on the paper.
  912.  
  913. 9. Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution
  914. until it turns orangebrown.
  915.  
  916. 10. Add 1/2 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) more of sulfuric acid to the solution. Al-
  917. low the solution to cool to room temperature.
  918.  
  919. 11. In a separate container, dissolve 1/4 teaspoon (1,8 grams) of potassium or
  920. sodium nitrate in 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of water.
  921.  
  922. 12. Add this solution in one portion, while stirring, to the orangebrown solu-
  923. tion. Allow the mixture to stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will turn light
  924. brown.
  925.  
  926. CAUTION: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from
  927. flame.
  928.  
  929. 13. Filter the mixture through a paper towel. Wash the particles left on the
  930. paper with 4 teaspoons (20 milliliters) of water.
  931.  
  932. 14. Allow the particles to dry (approx. 16 hours).
  933.  
  934. CAUTION: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store explosive in a capped
  935. container.
  936.  
  937. NOTE: The drying time can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot (not boiling) water
  938. bath is used. See Section I, No. 16.
  939.  
  940.  
  941. Section I
  942.  
  943. No. 20
  944.  
  945.  
  946. PREPARATION OF LEAD PICRATE
  947.  
  948. Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators
  949. (Section VI, No. 13. It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric
  950. acid (Section I, No. 21) or RDX (Section I, No. 15).
  951.  
  952. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  953. ------------------- --------
  954.  
  955. Litharge (lead monoxide) Section I, No, 18 or plumbing
  956. supplies
  957. Picric acid Section I, No. 21
  958. Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint removers; some antifreezes
  959. Wooden or plastic rod
  960. Dish or saucer (china or glass)
  961. Teaspoon
  962. Improvised Scale Section VII, No. 8
  963. Containers
  964. Flat pan
  965. Heat source (optional)
  966. Water (optional)
  967.  
  968. PROCEDURE:
  969. ----------
  970.  
  971. 1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a sepa-
  972. rate container.
  973.  
  974. 2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) of the alcohol in a dish. Add the pic-
  975. ric acid to the alcohol and stir with the wooden or plastic rod.
  976.  
  977. 3. Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring.
  978.  
  979. CAUTION: At this point the solution is a primary explosive. Keep away from
  980. flame.
  981.  
  982. 4. Continue stirring the mixture until the alcohol has evaported. The mixture
  983. will suddenly thicken.
  984.  
  985. 5. Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from forming) until a powder is
  986. formed. A few lumps will remain.
  987.  
  988. CAUTION: Be very careful of dry material forming on the inside of the container.
  989.  
  990. 6. Spread this powdered mixture, the lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry.
  991.  
  992. NOTE: If possible, dry the mixture in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a per-
  993. iod of 2 hours.
  994.  
  995.  
  996. Section I
  997.  
  998. No. 21
  999.  
  1000.  
  1001. PREPARATION OF PICRIC ACID FROM ASPIRIN
  1002.  
  1003. Picric acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators (Section VI,
  1004. No. 13), a high explosive charge, or as an intermadiate to preparing lead pic-
  1005. rate (Section I, No. 20) or DDNP (Section I, No. 19).
  1006.  
  1007. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
  1008. -------------------
  1009.  
  1010. Aspirin tablets (5 grams per tablet)
  1011. Alcohol, 95% pure
  1012. Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (battery acid - boil until white fumes appear)
  1013. Potassium Nitrate (Section I, No. 2)
  1014. Water
  1015. Paper towels
  1016. Canning jar, 1 pint
  1017. Rod (glass or wood)
  1018. Glass containers
  1019. Ceramic or glass dish
  1020. Cup
  1021. Teaspoon
  1022. Tablespoon
  1023. Pan
  1024. Heat Source
  1025. Tape
  1026.  
  1027. PROCEDURE:
  1028. ----------
  1029.  
  1030. 1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and
  1031. work into a paste.
  1032.  
  1033. 2. Add approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 milliliters) to the
  1034. aspirin paste; stir while pouring.
  1035.  
  1036. 3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
  1037. glass container. Discard the solid left on the paper towel.
  1038.  
  1039. 4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass dish.
  1040.  
  1041. 5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into
  1042. a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after evaporation.
  1043.  
  1044. NOTE: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approxi-
  1045. mately 160 to 180 degrees Farenheit. It should not burn the hands.
  1046.  
  1047. 6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning
  1048. jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric acid.
  1049.  
  1050. 7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for
  1051. 15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-
  1052. orange color.
  1053.  
  1054. 8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three portions
  1055. to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will
  1056. turn red, and then back to a yellow-orange color.
  1057.  
  1058. 9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient or room temperature while stirring
  1059. occasionally.
  1060.  
  1061. 10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300 milliliters)
  1062. of cold water and allow to cool.
  1063.  
  1064. 11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
  1065. yellow particles will collect on the paper towel.
  1066.  
  1067. 12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) of
  1068. water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.
  1069.  
  1070. 13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step 5,
  1071. for 2 hours.
  1072.  
  1073.  
  1074. Section I
  1075.  
  1076. No. 22
  1077.  
  1078.  
  1079. DOUBLE SALTS
  1080.  
  1081. Double Salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrications of detona-
  1082. tors (Section VI, No. 13). It can be made in the field from silver (coins),
  1083. nitric acid, calcium carbide, and water.
  1084.  
  1085. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
  1086. -------------------
  1087.  
  1088. Nitric acid (90% conc.) (Section I, No. 4)
  1089. Silver metal (silver coin, about 5/8 in. diameter)
  1090. Calcium carbine (acetylene or calcium carbine lamps)
  1091. Rubber and glass tubing (approx. 1/4 in. inside diameter)
  1092. Paper towels
  1093. Heat-resistant bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 quart capacity, and one cork to
  1094. fit. (Punch hole in cork to fit tubing.)
  1095. Teaspoon (aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated) or equivalent measure
  1096. Glass container
  1097. Heat source
  1098. Long narrow jar (olive jar)
  1099. Tape
  1100. Water
  1101. Alcohol
  1102.  
  1103. PROCEDURE:
  1104. ----------
  1105.  
  1106. 1. Dilute 2-1/4 teaspoons of nitric acid with 1-1/2 teaspoons of water in a
  1107. glass container by adding the acid to the water.
  1108.  
  1109. 2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The
  1110. solution will turn to a green color.
  1111.  
  1112. NOTE: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the sil-
  1113. ver coin.
  1114.  
  1115. CAUTION: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it
  1116. away with a large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
  1117.  
  1118. 3. Pour solution into a long narrow (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of
  1119. hot water. Crystals will form in the solution; heat until crystals dissolve.
  1120.  
  1121. 4. While still heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons
  1122. of calcium carbine in another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water. After
  1123. the reacion has started add another teaspoon of water. Then set up as shown.
  1124.  
  1125. TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
  1126. ***T** \ T
  1127. * T * Tubing *********
  1128. ********** * T *
  1129. * * T * * * T *
  1130. * * T * * * T *
  1131. * * * *-Bottle with * T *-Receiving jar with
  1132. * * * * narrow jar. * * cork.
  1133. * ****** * * *
  1134. ********** *********
  1135. HHHHHHHHHHHHHH-Heat source
  1136.  
  1137. 5. Bubble acetylene through the solution for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor
  1138. will be given off and white flakes will appear in the silver solution.
  1139.  
  1140. 6. Remove the silver solution from the heat source and allow it to cool. Fil-
  1141. ter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Green crystals
  1142. will collect on the paper.
  1143.  
  1144. 7. Wash the solids collected on the paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol.
  1145. The solid material will turn white while the solvent in the container will have
  1146. a green color.
  1147.  
  1148. 8. Place the white solid material on a clean papaer towel to air dry.
  1149.  
  1150. CAUTION: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle roughly.
  1151. Keep away from sparks or open flames. Store is cool, dry place.
  1152.  
  1153.  
  1154. Section I
  1155.  
  1156. No. 23
  1157.  
  1158.  
  1159. SODIUM CHLORATE
  1160.  
  1161. Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives.
  1162. It can be used in place of potassium chlorate (see Section I, No. 1).
  1163.  
  1164. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  1165. ------------------- --------
  1166.  
  1167. 2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. Dry cell batteries (2-1/2 in.
  1168. diameter x 5 in. long) diameter x 7 in. long) or
  1169. plumbing supply store
  1170. Salt or, ocean water Grocery store or ocean
  1171. Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor vehicle batteries
  1172. Motor vehicle
  1173. Water
  1174. 2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in.
  1175. diameter approx.), 6 ft.
  1176. long, insulated
  1177. Gasoline
  1178. 1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth
  1179. (5 in. diameter x 6 in. high
  1180. approx.)
  1181. Sticks
  1182. String
  1183. Teaspoon
  1184. Trays
  1185. Cup
  1186. Heavy cloth
  1187. Knife
  1188. Large flat pan or tray
  1189.  
  1190. PROCEDURE:
  1191. ----------
  1192.  
  1193. 1. Mix 1.2 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 quarts)
  1194. of water.
  1195.  
  1196. 2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously for 5
  1197. minutes.
  1198.  
  1199. 3. Strip about 4 inches of insulation from both ends of the 2 wires.
  1200.  
  1201. 4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of wood 1 x 1/8 x 1-1/2. Tie the wood
  1202. strips to the lead or catbon rods so that they are 1-1/2 inches spart.
  1203.  
  1204. 5. Connect the rods to the battery in a motor vehicle with the insulated
  1205. wire.
  1206.  
  1207. 6. Submerge 4-1/2 in. of the rods into the salt water solution.
  1208.  
  1209. 7. With gear in neutral position, start the vehicle engine. Depress the acce-
  1210. lerator approximately 1/5 of its full travel.
  1211.  
  1212. 8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this position for 2 hours; then,
  1213. shut it down 2 hours.
  1214.  
  1215. 9. Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of
  1216. the acid-salt water solution in the glass jar.
  1217.  
  1218. CAUTION: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous to personnel.
  1219. Do not tough bare wire leads while engine is running.
  1220.  
  1221. 10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect
  1222. wire leads from the battery.
  1223.  
  1224. 11. Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan otr tray,
  1225. leaving the sediment at the bottom of the glass jar.
  1226.  
  1227. 12. Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature
  1228. (approx. 16 hours). The residue is approximately 60% or more sodium chlorate
  1229. which is pure enough to be used as an explosive ingredient.
  1230.  
  1231.  
  1232. Section I
  1233.  
  1234. No. 24
  1235.  
  1236.  
  1237. MERCURY FULMINATE
  1238. -----------------
  1239.  
  1240. Mercury Fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of deto-
  1241. nators (Section VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as
  1242. picric acid (Section I, No. 21) or RDX (Section I, No. 15).
  1243.  
  1244. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  1245. ------------------- --------
  1246.  
  1247. Nitric Acid. 90% conc. (1.48 Field grade (Section I, No. 4) or
  1248. sp. gr.) industrial metal processors
  1249. Mercury Thermometers, mercury switches,
  1250. old radio tubes
  1251. Ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%)
  1252. Filtering material Paper towels
  1253. Teaspoon measure (1/4, 1/2, and
  1254. 1 teaspoon capacity) - alu-
  1255. minum, stainless steel or
  1256. wax-coated
  1257. Heat source
  1258. Clean wooden stick
  1259. Clean water
  1260. Glass containers
  1261. Tape
  1262. Syringe
  1263.  
  1264. PROCEDURE:
  1265. ----------
  1266.  
  1267. 1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2-1/2 teaspoons of clean water in
  1268. a glass container by adding the acid to the water.
  1269.  
  1270. 2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will
  1271. yield dark red fumes.
  1272.  
  1273. NOTE: It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the mercury-acid
  1274. solution in order to start reaction.
  1275.  
  1276. CAUTION: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it
  1277. away with a large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
  1278.  
  1279. 3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol feels
  1280. warm to the inside of the wrist.
  1281.  
  1282. 4. Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start
  1283. in less than 5 minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off during reaction. As
  1284. time lapses, the fumes will become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to com-
  1285. plete reaction. Fulminate will settle to bottom.
  1286.  
  1287. CAUTION: This reaction generates large quantiries of toxic, flammable fumes.
  1288. The process must be conducted outdoors or in a well ventilated area, away from
  1289. sparks or open flames. Do not inhale fumes.
  1290.  
  1291. 5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container. Crystals may
  1292. stick to the side of the container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the sides
  1293. of the container until all the material collects on the filter paper.
  1294.  
  1295. 6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl alcohol.
  1296.  
  1297. 7. Allow these mercury fulminate crystals to air dry.
  1298.  
  1299. CAUTION: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
  1300. roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flames. Store in cool, dry place.
  1301.  
  1302.  
  1303. Section I
  1304.  
  1305. No. 25
  1306.  
  1307.  
  1308. SODIUM CHLORATE AND SUGER OR ALUMINUM EXPLOSIVE
  1309.  
  1310. An explosive munition can be made from sodium chlorate combinated with gran-
  1311. ular suger, or aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonaded with a #8 com-
  1312. mercial or a Military J-2 blasting cap.
  1313.  
  1314. MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:
  1315. ------------------- --------
  1316.  
  1317. Sodium chlorate Section I, No. 23
  1318. Granular sugar Food store
  1319. Aluminum powder Paint Store
  1320. Wooden rod or stick
  1321. Bottle or jar
  1322. Blasting cap
  1323. Steel pipe (threaded at one
  1324. end), end cap and tape
  1325. Wax
  1326. Measuring container (cup, quart,
  1327. etc.)
  1328.  
  1329. PROCEDURE:
  1330. ----------
  1331.  
  1332. 1. Add three volumes (cups, quarts, etc.) sodium chlorate to one volume alu-
  1333. minum, or two granular sugar, in bottle or jar.
  1334.  
  1335. 2. Mix ingredients well by stirrin with the wooden rod or stick.
  1336.  
  1337. HOW TO USE:
  1338. -----------
  1339.  
  1340. 1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
  1341.  
  1342. 2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
  1343.  
  1344. 3. Pour mixture into pipe.
  1345.  
  1346. 4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.
  1347.  
  1348. NOTE: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the
  1349. explosive.
  1350.  
  1351.  
  1352. Pace, 1993. SWEDEN.
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